Cultures Combine at Ensue

Good ingredients and simplicity are the drivers behind chef Christopher Kostow’s cuisine and interiors by Chris Shao at the newly opened restaurant in Shenzhen

At Michelin-starred American chef Christopher Kostow’s first restaurant in China he blends his California farm-to-table culture and Michelin-star winning techniques with Cantonese tastes and ingredients. The blending of these two disparate cultures and landscapes is evident as soon as one enters Ensue thanks to New York-based Chinese designer Chris Shao. 

To discuss the duo’s first collaboration, Shao was invited to meet the acclaimed young chef at his farm in St Helena, California, where they shared their individual thoughts on luxury. ‘Things that can evoke an emotion are luxurious to me,’ Shao explained, while Kostow simply pointed to a nearby tree. It was at that moment, the designer says, that he made up his mind to bring an ‘unpretentious naturalism into the urban landscape of Shenzhen that would be emotive, yet effortless’ to the interiors of Ensue.

Upon entry, guests are greeted by a dramatic wall mural depicting the natural landscape of Napa, hand-painted by a local artist, which is complemented by horsehair wall lights by New York-based Apparatus, a ceiling pendant by Rosie Li depicting gingko leaves and blossoms, and a custom-made reception desk that resembles deer horns. This striking vignette immediately sets the tone for the rest of the dining experience. 

Moving through to the entrance, pitched shingled ceilings evoke traditional Chinese architecture, and a palette of moody colours, textures and sculptural forms dominates the spaces. In the main dining room, the background fades deliberately to shades of greys and neutrals, allowing the food to be the focus. 

In an effort to rethink and redefine the modern meaning of ‘Made in China’ in the design industry, Shao collaborated with artisans and manufacturers from around the Canton region to create the custom pieces that feature throughout the two-floors of dining rooms, lounge and reading room. 

And while the furnishings are locally made and the atmosphere inspired by twilight in Napa, the mise en scène is a unique blend of both cultures that is as elegant as the food created by Chef Kostow.

Text / Suzy Annetta
Images / Lit Ma (Common Studio) and Kelly Puleio Studio